Rickl
-
Posts
163 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Rickl
-
-
Hi Igor,
If I understand this thread correctly, you offer two options for resampling...
I use Mike Chaney's Qimage for all my printing, and he uses the term 'Interpolation Type' to prompt for the query I think you are trying to ask for with "Low quality of resizing"
Dick
-
Hi Gary,
Isn't jpg compression amazing!
As Peter mentioned, there are two issues here... image resolution and compression.
The pixel dimension for the 97Kb image is 1000 x 750 and the pixel dimension for the 854Kb image is 4000 x 3000
Your final image was 1920x1080. So in the small image case, PTE has to enlarge (actually interpolate) your 1000x750 image by a factor of two for the slideshow. In the larger image case PTE has to reduce the image size by approximately 2 to fit the 1920x1080 format.
I'm pretty sure that you should be able to detect differences between the small and large images if you examined them carefully. I use Faststone as my image viewer, and it allows you to compare images side by side. Bear in mind that the smaller image has to be enlarged by a factor of two to compare side by side... I think image deterioration should be visible then.
But it constantly amazes me the quality of images PTE manages to put on the screen, even when smaller images have to be enlarged...
On the sizing issue in your original message, note that your 40" TV is displaying an image that is 1920x1080 pixels in size. A printed image that size, assuming a minimum of image quality of 240 pixels per inch would require an image size of approximately 8400x4725 pixels according to my rough calculations. That is the point Peter was trying to make when comparing display vs printed size...
Hope this helps,
Dick
-
Hi Peter,
Glad to hear things are working out...
Re saving in 8 bit tiff...
I have not tried this, but I wonder if conversion to 8 bit would be better done in PSE? ie. Save in 16 bit tiff from lightroom, and let PSE convert to 8 bit mode?
Too bad PSE does not handle 16 bit... I guess they have to have some incentive to force users to put down the big bucks for 16 bit processing...
Dick
-
Concur with DaveGee....
RAW to TIFF if you plan to edit an image further in PSE. I once read about the unwise practice of editing jpegs...
The issue of problem skies... Could it be posterization caused by the 8 bit jpeg conversion from RAW? The variations of color and tone in a smooth blue sky may not be fit in only 255 levels?
In my workflow, the jpg format is used in the final copy only. If I plan to edit the image further in PSE, I use a 16 bit TIFF format for the intermediate file. Since I use PSE rather than the full Photoshop, so I have to convert to 8 bit mode in PSE if I want to use the editing tools, but at least the conversion is much later in the process.
Hope this helps,
Dick
-
What a fine presentation! Thank you so much...
You are creating a need for those of us on the west side of the Atlantic to visit countries on the east side. You sure built up the desire with this one...
Dick
-
I like Media Player Classic too - Particularly the Home Cinema version...
But for your information, WMP 12 that ships with Windows 7 includes the required h.264 decoder, and mp4 files can be played in WMP...
Dick
-
What a grand presentation! Such a beautiful country, and your images and music show what it must be like to be there!
Dick
-
PicturesToExe Deluxe 6.5 Beta 8 is available
Changes in this beta:
+ You can choose and save default font for new text objects. See "Save and Use by Default" link in Properties tab of Text object in the Objects and animation editor.
Thank you! That will save many keystrokes!
Dick
-
Hi Dick,
I'm not sure that I can figure out what Igor's version of Crossfading actually does.
I have demonstrated above a LINEAR CROSSFADE using the Fade In and Fade Out sliders.
True crossfading would attempt to keep the volume constant throughout while the first piece ends and the second piece begins and a number of different curves could be used to achieve this i.e. Linear; Sinusoidal; Logarithmic.
Yeah...
After experimenting I learned the role of offset in delaying the start of given track. Since the Offset/Crossfade appear to be radio buttons, (you can only select one of them at a time) I thought perhaps they played similar roles. Selecting offset to decide when a track takes over from another or overlays according to the fade in and fade out parameters and that is how I made my slideshow. But I had the impression that selecting crossfade would achieve the same result without setting the fade in and fade out parameters.
I look forward to someone with an example of the cross fade function.
Dick
-
Great way to display how it works! Thanks!
Can you add how crossfade works? I thought it would do the job of fading into the next track, but when I tried it with 6.5 beta 3, it did not do what I expected... Mind you this is beta software...
Dick
-
I have to agree with the comments about going back to the originals if you want to maximize quality.
But if you are stuck, here is an interesting option.
I use Idimager for my Photo library, and highly recommend it, but the author developed a free download called BDSIZER that does batch resizing quickly. It also can add watermarks, captions and frames etc which can to wonders to dressing up a presentation.
You will find it here...
http://www.idimager.com/downloads/freeware
And you may want to add the Frame designs if the idea appeals to you...
Hope this helps,
Dick
-
Nobeefstu addressed the aspect ratio issue - so there is not much I can add.. Your source images appear to be 3:2 aspect, and your wide screen is 16:9 so you will be facing screen aspect issues no matter what you do. Also, you are aware of the screen settings on your TV.. (My Sony has Normal, Wide Zoom etc)... When trying to show a slideshow with a possible aspect ratio issue, I like to reduce my image sizes by 15% (ie O&A Zoom 85%) so that they show with a black border around the entire image regardless of the aspect ratio of the TV/Monitor. The image is smaller, but it shows reasonably fine on both standard and High Def TV's. You can also change the color and texture of the background if you like...
I just completed a DVD project using Videobuilder to create all the files, but withold the actual burn. I like to view the slideshow by opening the DVD folder created by Videobuilder with VLC before burning the DVD. That way I can catch obvious errors before making coasters. My first attempt after installing 6.5.4 beta was kind of jittery too! I then realized that the default TV system in Videobuilder/Project Options was PAL/SECAM! That did not work smoothly on our side of the Atlantic... You might want to make sure you have that set correctly...
I have Videobuilder create an image ISO file, and burn it to disk with ImgBurn after I am satisfied with the DVD preview from the DVD folder.
Hope this helps,
Dick
-
Hello Peter,
As I know you like cubes like me, I've just prepared - very rapidly (I hope there is no mistake)- for you (but not only !), a small example using two masks with 140 objects on each (the same cube'set)under and above an other cube'set.
You'll find the template there :
http://www.sendspace.com/file/2st68g
best regards
Jean-Cyprien
What an amazing demonstration!
And I thought my pans and zooms were great demonstrations. Just to design this template...! Going to have to spend more time studying masks and frames that's for sure!
Magnifique!
Dick
-
Dick,
What you need to do to is increase (not reduce) the image size with a border by 10-15% to fit your Safe Zone. After you increase the image size with the border while maintaining your prefered ratio ... tweak the image background property from VB four Customize selections available.
Select Edit | Show TV Safe Zone to view/verify your background image fits as you require.
Perfect! I need to learn to think outside the box! Increasing the canvas size added black bars around the image, forcing the desired image to fit within my safe zone! Thanks so much for the tip!
Dick
-
Hi Dick,
Not at present there isn't. But Igor recently canvassed opinions on text and other defaults, so it's definitely on his radar. But for v6.5...? who can say, we'll just have to wait.
Try this method:
- use O&A to place your first text object
- set this first text's content,position, font, size and colour to suit your requirements
- copy this text object to the clipboard
- advance to the next slide that needs text
- paste the text from the clipboard
- change contents and position (size, too, if needed)
- advance to next slide and repeat until done.
regards,
Peter
Darn there are some clever folks in this forum! That will do the trick! Thanks very much Peter!
Dick
-
Created a DVD last week with three segments called by separate buttons. Worked very well!
On playing the DVD on TV, I realized I had not made provision for the TV safe zone. Quickly went through the slide set and reduced the zoom level by 15 percent. But I was not able to reduce the size of the background image on the DVD menu page in videobuilder. I tried reducing the size of the image, but videobuilder always filled the screen when displaying it. Is there a way to reduce the image so that it fits inside the TV zone?
Dick
-
Hi Yachtsman1,
What an efficient way to do it! Thanks very much!
While we are talking text, is there a way to change the default font and font color in the text tool in O&A?
I had to add names to a whole batch of slides last week, and wanted to use a different font and color, and I had to change font and color every time when I moved to the next slide...
Dick
-
What a truly relaxing experience! It was so interesting to see so much stone used in the buildings and fences. Then your images clearly show the lack of trees in the landscape! I guess you use the material nature presents you! Thank you so much for the travelogues. we look forward to your next trip! Another place we want to visit after we come back from the Pyrenees...
Dick
-
As I said, lots of food for thought. I'll try and remember to come back and post an update after I make my decision as to the future of RAW and me.
Just a few thoughts...
RAW processing is an extra step, and will probably lead you to increase your online storage...
It is not at all necessary if you are able to set your camera perfectly for every exposure...
RAW processing moves the image processing decisions to your computer instead of letting the camera firmware decide what the image should look like...
Here are some examples where raw processing has saved the day for me...
Wrong Exposure... recovers 2+ stops under, 1 stop over including recovering some burnout
Wrong white balance... Decide later how to set color balance. Sure nice to see good skin tones in fluorescent lighting situations...(why didn't I see the lighting color????)
Print or Web? Decide later whether to use aRGB or sRGB
...
There are many more capabilities depending on the RAW software you use, but many features can be corrected by PS or PSE to some degree. But bear in mind that RAW processing works with the original image data from the sensor rather than the decompressed image data from the camera processed jpeg...
In my case, (Pentax K20d) most of my flip top flash exposures are wrong. It may be my declining brain power to fix, but if there is anything reflecting in the image - mirror, window, shining chrome, my flash shuts down early to avoid burnout. In RAW, I can easily alter the image processing ro raise the ISO... and ignore the source of the burnout... ie the flash in the window...
Is it worth it? Well it's the cheapest insurance policy you can buy... It can cost a lot of money to reshoot - and sometimes impossible - So in my view it's worth dedicating a few megabytes in file size... (and perhaps SD card size). Once you are satisfied with the image, you can save it as a tif or jpg, and delete the raw file. But I don't. I come back later, and I find that there are many ways of seeing an image, and sometimes my first interpretation is not always the best...
Hope this helps,
Dick
-
Can somebody point me at a good set of online tutorials or an "idiot's guide" book that will get me started along the right lines? Right now this is a totally alien workflow. There are so many options that I don't know where to begin.
regards,
Peter
Hi Peter,
I am very impressed with the tutorials from this source...
http://luminous-landscape.com/videos/LR2.shtml
Jeff Schewe of course is very well connected with Adobe, and I've learned so much from Michael Reichmann's web site.
I use Silkypix for my raw conversion and Idimager for my Digital Asset Management, but I have used Lightroom, and it is remarkable. After processing images with Lightroom, you seldom need photoshop to do any further work on your raw images.
I bought Mike and Jeff's tutorial 'From camera to print' and enjoyed it immensely.
Hope this helps,
Dick
-
Absolutely magnifique!
Never ceases to amaze me how clever people can take a fine image presentation program, and create an animated movie!
Merci bien Jean-Cyprien
Dick
-
When you look at the prices charged for a reasonable length HDMI cable it ought to do all that and make the tea and toast too
Ha ha. Indeed. I thought that until I found www.monoprice.com...
Dick
-
Beautiful!
Inspired images.
I visit our own Conservatory in Winnipeg, Manitoba in the centre of Canada, and have taken many pictures of the plants there.
Nice snapshots, but...
The delicate lighting and close ups in your presentation are masterpieces.
Now I have to review my images to see if there are possibilities...
Thanks for opening my eyes.
Dick
-
Outstanding Maureen!
Heretofore, Jeff Schewe and Michael Reichman were my references for Antarctic images...
eg. http://photoshopnews.com/feature-stories/antarctica-expedition/
http://luminous-landscape.com/locations/antarctica-2009-portfolio.shtml
But you have blown the doors off...
What a gorgeous presentation! And the music was so relaxing... Nothing compared to donning your boots and arctic gear I bet... Bet the penguin ranches were odorous too... or was that shampoo the babies were wearing...
Thanks
Dick
Pax Aeterna
in Slideshows & AV Shows
Posted
Just have to add my congrats... The lighting is amazing! And the IR shots look out of this world.
I tried to shoot some grave stones that date back to the 1850's here in Manitoba Canada, but the sure don't look like these!!!
Thanks for a great presentation!
Dick