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8 bit and 16 bit


Ronniebootwest

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Dave and Ken,

very many thanks for you detailed and very welcome information on high pass sharpening etc.

It's something I've yet to try.

Will make a start tonight, if I can wriggle out of writing Christmas cards for a couple of hours!

John

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Dave,

That High-Pass sharpening procedure was, indeed, an excellent tip. Not only did I consider the results, thus obtained, more natural and aesthetically pleasing, but found the degree of sharpening required (that is to say, for my own particular taste and needs) easier to achieve. Probably because, in the final step, coming back from 100% blend of the High pass layer, is so intuitive.

Particularly pleasing was the sharpening of an image containing rock detail (taken at Malham Cove earlier this year)

Normally, I do not sharpen any part of an image containing “sky”. So, I’ve, as you suggested, made a “High Pass” sharpening action that stops before the two layers are flattened. This works like a dream, whether or not a selection has been made to exclude the sky.

In grateful recognition, I’ve named it “Dave’s High-Pass Sharpener”.

Regards

John

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Glad I was able to help you.

Flatery will get you everywhere, but, alas it's not all my idea. It's just what i've been taught and picked up along the way. one thing I learned in PS over the years, is that most ways are correct but some can be better than others.

Cheers.

Dave

damor.

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Just a further note to the comments on the use of high pass filter to give a sharpening effect. I have been using this for aome time, after reading an article in some magazine. However the blend mode used was "overlay". I have tried some examples using various blend modes to see what the effect would be.

It seems to be a bit dependent on the type of original image. If you have a stome wall for exaple, "hard light" blending seems a bit harsh. Generally I think I will stick to the "overlay" blending.

Jeff Evans

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Just a further note to the comments on the use of high pass filter to give a sharpening effect.

It seems to be a bit dependent on the type of original image. If you have a stome wall for exaple, "hard light" blending seems a bit harsh. Generally I think I will stick to the "overlay" blending.

Jeff Evans

I nearly always use this method but prefer to use "soft light" blending.

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Jeff,

Thanks for that. I'm still exploring this sharpening method and have already found how very varied is the response, of individual images, to degree of opacity (at the last stage) and the type of blending mode chosen.

So far have only tried hard and soft light. Will give overlay a try at the next opportunity.

John

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Russell Brown, the "Photoshop Guru", recommends a method for sharpening whereby two copies of the main layer are created, and then the "unsharp mask" filter is applied to each, but selecting "darken" mode for the one and "lighten" for the other. The two resulting layers are then overlaid over the original using different opacities. The result is a more delicate sharpening than obtained by just applying "unsharp mask".

I suspect that if one examined what is really happening with these different options, that the end-result might be identical, just 2 different ways of getting to the same place.

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Wow! what a journey. From 8/16 bit to sharpening in one smooth operation. Tremendous support from you people for this topic - thanks.

Let me bring you back on course though, the sharpening part of this discussion was started with question of whether you RAW users apply sharpening during the processing stage and that question has not yet been answered.

For my part, I use a bit of both. my RAW processor is now the one sold by 'Phase One Pro' and I find that all my images from Canon 1D MarkII need some sharpening. I apply around 100 as an initial amount. After processing I steer completely away from that 'Unsharp Mask' in Photoshoop and tend to use the 'High Pass' method discussed in this thread. I often find the need to selectively sharpen as well.

There are so many different opinions on when to and when not to sharpen, I doubt that this metter will go to sleep for a while yet.

Ron

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Russell Brown, the "Photoshop Guru", recommends ......]

Al,

I had a look at Russel Brown's site yesterday and was particularly impressed by a tutorial on the CS2 Bridge application.

However, it's complexity was such that I could not soak it up at one sitting. I thought it would make for several instructive viewings, over the next week, while recovering from several forms of over indulgence.

BUT, could'nt work out how to save it (the tutorial).

Do you know if saving Russel's tutorials is possible?

John

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In my operating system (Win XP) I have to right click on the particular show I want and then choose "Save target as". It should then present a dialogue box allowing you to choose where to save the ".mov" file.

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Hi Ken,

As I mentioned earlier I never use that sharpening facilty in any RAW converter, PS does it better in my experience. I have found that it leavse undesired artifacts in a cloudy grey sky. most of my work is done in camera, with cokin filters, etc etc. but the sharpen setting on my EOS is left off. if its on and you again sharpen in PS that = trouble, well at least for me it has.

Cheers,

Dave. :)

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Got it the other day. it also downloaded microsoft (dot)net. what is that. any ideas?

It's a new MS development system specially tailored for Internet business applications, in competition with Sun Microsystems "Java", etc.

See WIKIPEDIA INFO

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