davegee

"You can slightly affect to image quality changing "Sharper/Smoother" parameter in the Objects and animation editor. I recommend to set -100 (minus 100). This is default value since Beta 19. You need not care about this parameter in common cases. I hope that it's best solution for image quality. Sometimes if you discover a rare case of moire (especially if you add oversharpened image) you can change this parameter to "0" or even (plus) "128"." Igor, I'm confused by this statement - I expected to see the slider set at -100 for new objects? It is still set at zero. Or are you saying that minus 100 in Beta 18 = Zero in Beta 19? If I want an image to look exactly the same as when I saved it as a JPEG in my software of choice what setting should I use? DG

Igor, Thanks for Beta 19. It is difficult to judge without seeing 18 and 19 side by side but the latest version certainly gives the impression of being sharper with better contrast and definition when viewing the same project. Well done!! DG

Steady on Ken!! My IIYAMA 24" is using the same settings now as when it was taken out of the box. Never needed any further setting - I don't print. As I said I've never connected my laptop to my TV for anything other than showing PTE EXE files or MP4 files. I have, however, shown my PTE EXE files and MP4 files on OTHER PEOPLES TVs and found that they looked absolutely terrible until I shifted the colour back from in-your-face ULTRA VIVID theatre to natural. "different strokes for different folks" - dead right!! You might well be right about larger screens (and larger resolutions) being more susceptible to shimmering - something to investigate? DG

Barry, Please don't take offence at this but I feel that you continue to miss a VERY important point here. Not everyone wants or needs a pro camera and its 20+ Mp resolution. You cannot test a feature or a theory with a camera which has 6000x4000 resolution and say that it applies to all cameras on the market. So, if Igor introduces a feature which helps a user with a camera with less resolution then those of you who write tutorials need to take this into account? It seems that you don't need to use this feature but your opening comments refered to the fact that you sat down to write a tutorial on this feature. If your camera with its 25% more resolution than mine doesn't need this feature then that's great but it seems obvious to me that if you used a archived image out of one of your much older cameras in a PTE show this feature could be of great help to you. Keep up the good work. DG

Don't know Ken - never tried that. I wouldn't advocate using the TV to test anything like this. It is OK for showing PTE EXE files (when the colour settings are NEUTRAL) but when editing I use a Computer Monitor - not a TV or a projector. DG

I took a full frame JPEG from my camera and zoomed into 100%. By moving the slider from -128 to 128 I can see obvious smoothing of the image and its details. The way I have used it is to use two slides, the first for the animation (fit to slide through to 100% zoom for instance) and the second for the static image (100% zoom). Set 128 during the animation and -128 during the static phase and at the end of the PZR the image snaps into sharp focus. You don't have to use those figures - if the image is sharp enough for your taste then set 128 during animation and 0 when static. Whether it reduces Moire is something else but it will (on most images) reduce shimmering - these are two different subjects (I think?). DG

Suggestion: Try an image which obviously "shimmers" during animation. Then add smoothing and see if the shimmering is improved (lessened). DG

barry have u tried as i suggested above right click on desktop a look for properties/sound settings and anything to do with digital or hdmi sound with cable connected. dg

Exactly, but you can't connect a laptop to a TV in the same way. Don't you ever go to bed? With the new TVs having Media Players the WD units are redundant. DG

Ken, I'm wondering what he intends to do with USB cables? USB on computer - input device. USB on TV - input device. You can't connect an input device to an input device - won't work! I was talking about a USB KEY (I use a 16Gb Key) a storage device or maybe a USB External drive can be connected to the TV and an MP4 played from it (NOT an EXE BTW). If using USB External Drive I can only connect up to 500Gb on my Sony TV - anything bigger is not recognised. DG

Thanks Morasoft, Interesting. DG

Why RAR? I have never had any software that supports/extracts from it and I don't need an extra prog. The built in ZIP Folder function in Windows is adequate. Sorry, Morasoft, I'll pass on this. DG

Have I missed something? How is a USB Cable (however long) going to help? DG

HDMI definitely carries the sound. DVI definitely does not carry the sound. If you have a setup which requires a DVI to HDMI converter cable then you will not get the sound. Other than that it is down to your laptop settings. I have never encountered this problem with my aging Sony Laptop and up to date Sony TV - it worked from day 1. I echo what Brian said: If you have a USB socket on the TV and the TV has a Media Player then there is only a slight (but measurable) difference between playing an H.264 MP4 file via a USB key and playing the EXE via a HDMI connection. The advantage of the USB route is: NO WIRES! P.S. when connecting via HDMI is it possible for you to hear the sound from the laptop via earphones - that might prove something? Just saw your original reference to laptop volume - when connected to TV via HDMI my laptop sound DOES NOT PLAY! P.P.S If you look at PROPERTIES (I'm on Vista) there is a section for SOUND which includes the settings for HDMI playback. Mine tells me that it is "working" and includes (in another Properties section) a Digital Output Device Volume Control. In the ADVANCED section, both of the "Exclusive Mode" Options are ticked. DG

Peter, Although it (LR) doesn't have "absolute" values the suggestion is that there is no difference between ranges of quality values. I believe that the example given is that there is no quality difference between for instance 70% and 76%. The equivalent of "Save as" Quality 7 for you (LR) appears to be between quality 54-61%. A question for you: Why do you set a quality value when sending from LR to Elements - surely you send as a 16 Bit TIFF to which this does not apply? Otherwise I agree with you entirely. We have discussed this before and each person's Save As setting is going to be different and depends on factors relating to Camera, resolution etc..... Which is why (in PS) my preference was for "Save for the Web" for a number of reasons. Firstly it allows you to SEE the result you can expect from a particular quality setting in real time and secondly it automaticlly converts to sRGB for those occasions when you forget to do it yourself. DG

For those to whom JPEG quality is an issue, some recent articles and trials suggest that Adobe's Level 7, when saving as a JPEG, is best avoided: http://www.dpreview.com/news/1108/11082915jpegupdate.asp http://regex.info/blog/lightroom-goodies/jpeg-quality#surprise Levels 0-6 and 8-12 are linear in quality/file size terms but level 7 is not always of better quality than level 6. The articles point out that the results only apply to LR and PS "Save As". "Save for the Web" does not, apparently, work the same way. DG

Igor, My laptop refresh rate settings offers me either 59Hertz or 60Hertz. Can you comment on this? DG

Jill, In the meantime you could create two versions of an image (normal and blurred) and blend the two using a mask. ........but you probably already knew that? DG

the iso option will do what you require. dg

Read carefully Xaver, the pictures don't tell the full story. Both methods work. DG

In Objects and Animations you'll see the TEXT listed on the right hand side. Click on it and you'll see it's Keyframe on the timeline - a blue flag on the left hand side. Right click on this blue flag and select CLONE KEYFRAME. Move the new Keyframe to the right hand side and adjust its ZOOM value in the ANIMATION TAB (to ZERO). This process allows for any PZR adjustment on any object. DG

John, Lin Evans has suggested a few times that it is possible to seperate the Video and Audio components of your Video Clips and insert the Audio seperately into the MUSIC section. You can then use the PTE Audio controls to adjust the volume. I suggest that you search Lin's comments and start from there? DG

Steve, Although I rarely use this feature the difference between Beta 15 and Beta 16 seems to be that both IPTC and EXIF comments are now catered for seperately. Compare the two Betas/versions? DG

Thanks Ken, It's great to see, once again, how some people's attitudes to (and knowledge of) the subject have changed in just a few years. DG

Thanks Andre, I thought that it had been brought up before and surprisingly Peter was in favour then (). I still think it has some merit even if it is switchable. DG