Peter S

I have as usual received excellent support on this issue from Igor and Dmitry. For anyone else wanting to try this with a Mac here is the answer. Mirroring has not yet been supported with the Mac Viewer but they will try to include it before the official release. To show a slide show on a TV linked to a Mac: Turn Mirroring OFF. Go to System Preferences - Displays. You should see two rectangles. I had a small one representing the LCD and a larger one representing the TV. The smaller one had a white band across the top indicating that the LCD was the main display. Click on the white band and drag it to the TV display making it the main display. Select the slide show and run it. You have to do this looking at the TV screen and I found it easy to loose track of where the cursor was. At times it appeared to vanish but I could always find it by moving to the screen edges. Kind regards Peter

Dave, It is a KDL 40W 5500. This attachment shows the various resolutions but I'm not too sure what to make of it! Kind regards Peter

Dave and Barry thanks for your interest and your replies. The Mac detects the Sony display as well as its own inbuilt LCD. So I get Display options allowing me to mirror the displays or not. The options for the Sony TV are shown as 1600x900 60Hz NTSC which is auto selected for me and 1280x720 1920x1080 one of these is PAL. I have tried them all without success and have tried mirroring on and off. I am beginning to suspect that it may be something to do with the way that the Mac viewer works but I guess only Igor or Dmitry would know if that is the case? I can view everything else I have tried on screen such as this forum and Lightroom. Kind regards Peter

I have recently bought a Sony Bravia HD TV. I have linked this to my Laptop which is a MacBook. I can mirror the displays so I see on the TV exactly what I see on the laptop BUT.... I cannot get a PTE slide show to appear on the TV screen. It runs perfectly on the laptop. When connected to the TV I can get sound but no picture. I am connecting the video out on the laptop via a DVI-D to HDMI lead and a separate sound connection from the headphone socket to the TV audio in that relates to the appropriate HDMI input. I am puzzled and would appreciate some help. Many thanks Peter

Barry, Just a couple more comments. The download for It could be yesterday has an icon just labelled mac. I downloaded Another Age and that has an icon specifically labelled Another Age. The white line around the slides in Another Age is missing on the bottom edge. The quality otherwise is excellent again. Kind regards Peter

Barry, I just ran "It could be yesterday". It ran perfectly on my iMac. Great show with just the right music and commentary. It looks really excellent on a 24 inch glossy screen. I would be interested to know what textures/filters you used to create the very nice overall effect. Who did the commentary? Kind regards Peter

It's not an accute problem! Touché See it's easy - buy a Mac and you will be able to use alternative keyboards at a stroke. You will also be able to use it with PTE as well soon(ish)?? é è ç § à ù É È À Peter

I think Igor or Dmitry will have to answer this. I am sure one of them will pick it up quite soon. I have certainly not experienced this problem. Kind regards Peter

I have been playing with iWeb, Mac's easy web site development tool. It has a facility to add, by the simple drag and drop technique, a Quicktime movie that can be viewed by anyone visiting the site. Does anyone know if there is any way that I can create a Quicktime movie from a PTE show? Peter

Hi Lin, If you would like me to check it out for you you could either upload a file to mediafire (or similar) or send me a link that I could download from. Kind regards Peter

Hello again Lin, Just out of interest I tried zipping the folder. It did not make much difference to the size of the file reduced it from 12.4 MB to 11.7MB. I sent it across to the Mac double clicked it and it unzipped it and immediately created an unzipped version of the show on my desktop. So no need to zip unless you particularly wish to do so and it will not create a problem for your friends whichever way you choose. Kind regards Peter

Hi Lin, This is actually so easy you probably don't need a tutorial! Excellent work from the developers. On your PC Create - Executable for Mac. You will then get a folder named Linslideshow.app wherever you choose to save it. (This is your ptedemoshowfull.app). If you copy this folder and all its contents to, for example, a memory stick and give the memory stick to your friends they can then copy it to their Mac. When they view the contents of the memory stick they will NOT see a folder with a lot of contents. ALL they will see is a single file named Linslideshow. It will not have any extension. If they double click this file your slideshow will run on their Mac. They can exit at anytime using esc. If you do need anything else please let me know. Kind regards Peter

Hi Peter, Dave Thanks for your advice. I was actually hoping to show an overview panning round the coast at the start without showing the moving line or anything else but this may just not be possible. If this is the case your solution may be the only workable one. Lin did you mean to post a reply??? Peter

Hello everyone, It's quite some time since I have posted here or done much with PTE, apart from a bit of testing on the Mac beta, so please excuse me if I should know the answer to this! I want to slowly pan around the coast of the UK covering a famous long distance walk known as the South West Coast Path. It is 630 miles (1014 km). I have taken screen shots from Google Earth at 30 mile altitude and stitched them together to make one large map. It is possible to see the names of larger towns and some roads at this size. The file is 7417 KB and it is 10196 px wide by 6292 high. It looks quite good on screen at a zoom of 800. It is a shame that the images are not consistent with regard to colour matching of the terrain but I can live with that. I guess the pictures are taken under differing weather conditions. My problem is getting a continuous pan around the coast to look smooth without jerky changes between the horizontal pans moving east/west and the vertical pans moving north/south. Can anyone please advise me as to the best way to achieve this? I will eventually add a mask to indicate the route that the walk actually takes and hopefully recent posts I have read on this topic will make this reasonably plain sailing. Kind regards Peter

The late Bruce Fraser is widely considered as one of the leading experts on sharpening and his work has been carried on by Jeff Schewe and incorporated into recent versions of Lightroom and Photoshop. If you follow the link below and then read the thread you will find a good explanation of the three types of sharpening you can use to perfect your images. http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....st&p=288501 Also look at this thread Jeff Schewe is producing a new book. http://luminous-landscape.com/forum/index....st&p=289256 If you have not visited the Luminous Landscape web site before I would recommend it as a great source of info on many aspects of photography including Lightroom and Photoshop. http://www.luminous-landscape.com/ Kind regards Peter

I think that JPD produced a very impressive sequence using Google Earth but it was a long while ago could be a couple of years. Kind regards Peter

If you shoot RAW and you use Lightroom you may notice that Lightroom actually works in ProphotoRGB (or something very close to that) because that provides a much wider colour gamut. If you print using Lightroom you do NOT have to concern yourself with converting to sRGB. BUT....if you want to display/project images and/or send them to other people who do not have colour managed systems you should always convert to sRGB and this is true for all PTE shows. Kind regards Peter

Thanks Barry, Perhaps you could sign him up! Peter

Hi Barry, Downloaded Australia to test on my 24 inch iMac and it looks great. What was the music on Australia 03? I really enjoyed it. Kind regards Peter

Hi Igor, I would be very happy to help with the testing. Following are details of my set up using a 24 inch iMac. Some of the details don't mean a lot to me but they be useful for you. Model Name: iMac Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo Processor Speed: 2.8 GHz Number Of Processors: 1 Total Number Of Cores: 2 L2 Cache: 6 MB Memory: 4 GB Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz Chipset Model: ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro Type: Display Bus: PCIe PCIe Lane Width: x16 VRAM (Total): 256 MB Vendor: ATI (0x1002) Device ID: 0x9583 Revision ID: 0x0000 ROM Revision: 113-B2250L-259 EFI Driver Version: 01.00.259 Displays: iMac: Resolution: 1920 x 1200 Depth: 32-bit Color Core Image: Hardware Accelerated Main Display: Yes Mirror: Off Online: Yes Quartz Extreme: Supported Built-In: Yes Operating System: Leopard Mac OS X 10.5.6 (9G55) Kind regards Peter

No Dave I have not missed the point! I agree that you should save all your images in sRGB for use in PTE. If you want simplicity set your camera to jpeg and sRGB and do no manipulation other than cropping. BUT.... If you want to manipulate your images in Lightroom and/or Photoshop you will achieve the best results by shooting in RAW. If you shoot in RAW it is IRRELEVANT what setting you use on your camera for colour space. Colour gradation, amongst other things, is much better if you use RAW and manipulate images in a colour space larger than sRGB whatever you use as a presentation medium. Kind Regards Peter

Colour calibration of monitors is in my view absolutely essential if you want to see colours consistently. I have two monitors sitting next to one another. Before the second monitor was calibrated it displayed colours that were significantly different from those on the first monitor. If you view images at different times in different lighting conditions you may well think that they were the same but try the side by side test and you are likely to get a surprise. It is somewhat difficult to compare a print with a screen image but before I knew anything about colour management I was shocked to see how different the colours on my prints were from those on screen. Calibrating my screen with a Spyder made a great improvement. At least I can be fairly confident now that my print will be very close to what I intended. AdobeRGB or sRGB? What about ProPhoto RGB? If you shoot RAW and if you use Lightroom you will be working in ProPhoto RGB. You can however export a file in any of these colour spaces. If you do this and view them in Lightroom the colours look pretty much identical. If you look at them in PTE the ProPhoto versions will look much less colourful. The Adobe and sRGB versions may not look much different but they will not be identical. So why would you want to use ProPhoto? If you want to make changes to your image it is best to start with the maximum amount of information and a wide colour space. That means RAW files and ProPhoto. When you have completed all your manipulations then you can change to sRGB to use the image in PTE. Older and cheaper monitors show a narrower range of colours than newer and more expensive (wide gamut) monitors so you may gain little by using the widest gamut available but printing is a different issue. Adobe has an intersting paper at: http://www.adobe.com/digitalimag/pdfs/phscs2ip_colspace.pdf As Maureen points out many Photoshop books provide information on this topic. There are also specialist books on colour management. If you only shoot in RAW it makes no difference whether you set your camera to sRGB or AdobeRGB. Kind regards Peter

I know several people were quite fond of the Buzz Simplifier Filter from fo2pix who have now gone out of business. I came across a replacement that is available as a Public Beta at: http://www.topazlabs.com/src/beta/topazsimplify_beta02b.zip There are a couple of examples at: http://www.plugsandpixels.com/simplify.html For those who need it there will be a Mac version in a couple of weeks apparently. I have not tested it out yet! Kind regards Peter

Hi Igor, Looks terrific and I liked the music too - where is it from?. The effect seems something a bit more than a "Transition". Kind regards Peter

Hi Brian, Many thanks for all the useful info you have provided on this topic. I have been learning a lot. I do NOT have a separate sound card and it does not look as if I have any facility for Line Input on my PC so perhaps I should invest in the iMic as it would be around the same price. I see on Amazon that there are one or two different (newer?) versions with the Griffin 1102-IMIC2 iMic looking identical to the one in your post. Is that the one to go for now? My wife has a fairly powerful PC inherited from our son when he upgraded and that does have a separate sound card so I will experiment with using my AKG through that. As my main interest is in voice overs either solution would win hands down over the Zoom. Kind regards Peter