davegee

Brian, I have to say that I don't copy your experiences with shutting down / hibernation - whatever you care to call it. Many's the time I have gone out for the day and forgot to turn the darned thing off. I've come back 8-10 hours later and just hit the enter key and there it is. I don't advise it, but it happens - I've never experienced anything like you describe. So, in theory, what are we talking about? How many times do we do a scan and it finds absolutely nothing? Is it a huge problem, if on one overnight scan out of a hundred, that the machine stays on waiting for an answer? I think I'll give it a try and see what happens. My laptop's Power Scheme is configured for mains power and never switches off etc. Best wishes, DaveG

Not at all - I'm learning here. So if a problem is encountered and requires an action, presumably the scan would stay open on screen awaiting your decision in the morning? Otherwise it would close down? I don't really see that as a big problem - when I was gainfully employed I left my computer running sometimes for weeks on end with no adverse effects. Maybe that's a good idea? If you don't reboot you don't get any problems? But we have to be green don't we? DaveG

Hi both, I tried both Auto Scroll 1 and 2 and neither produced the symptoms you describe. Perhaps some details of your graphics card and its RAM would be helpful? Mine's a GeForce 7600 GS with 512Mb of RAM. By today's standards that's not as up-to-date as I would like but I don't want to risk disturbing anything by upgrading. DaveG

Hi Eric, If your intended late night scan kicks in too soon you could PAUSE the scan and RESUME on completion of your work. There is also another advanced option: "Delay this task if a full screen application is running". Acouple of other options: "Scan infectable files only" In "Scan process priority" change from Automatic to "Fast scan" Scan "C" drive only. One of my "pet foibles" is that my "C" drive contains NO DATA (other than data which programmes write during their operation and can't be re-directed elsewhere) and this minimises the scanning time. Hi Brian, I bow to your knowledge on all things computing and would ask a couple of questions to improve my knowledge: Firstly, if a late night scan is actioned would that not isolate the sneaky little Virus that is going to action itself on shut down and therefore prevent it from wreaking havoc on the next start up? That's providing that your definitions are up to date and the sneaky little virus is a "known virus". Secondly, which is best, A or B: A - Late night scan B - No scan at all Best wishes, DaveG

Eric, One of the ADVANCED properties of AVG is to run a scan and close the computer. So if your scan was scheduled for (around) 11pm you could safely leave the computer running knowing that after the scan it would switch itself off. DaveG

The answer seems to be simple: Have you tried the EXE file from your hard drive? How long does it take to start up (it should be instantaneous)? If all is well from the hard drive try a flash memory key - once again it should be instantaneous. Try it without the Autorun - how long does it take to open the CD in Explorer so that you can start it Manually? DaveG

My preference would be to remove CREATE from the bottom left and have two menu options: CREATE EXE with its various options & CREATE VIDEO with its various options. DaveG

I think that you are right to be concerned - PTE produces the best quality in an EXE file. However from what I have seen / read recently quality seems to be a secondary issue and the MP4 capability has taken everyone's attention. For my part I think that the MENU should emphasise the quality of the EXE file more than it does and provide a path to other output options seperately. DaveG

If you use a MENU slide - an Image or blank with links to your shows - would that be suitable for your application? DaveG

It is possible that Maureen's comments here: http://www.picturestoexe.com/forums/index....&hl=maureen ...about the Alienware laptop being built to match the Optoma 1920x1080 projector might be relevant and a lesson for future reference? DaveG

Hi barry, Sometimes it is better to be part of a community in order to get the things you want. Being outside and looking in is perhaps not the best way. I'm sure that you would be welcomed by the forum and have a lot to offer - you could also plug your wish list in the "Suggestions for the next version" section regularly. Your experiences with your home theatre and 1080 projector would be a valuable asset here. DaveG

Peter, When the Fujitsu is in the "both" configuration, the graphics card is obviously sending a signal to "both". Could that be "overloading" the graphics card? Did you not say that the Fujitsu was the oldest with the least RAM? (You are probably ahead of me!!) DaveG

If you search on the words "edirol" and/or "zoom" I think you'll find the threads you are looking for wrt sound recording. DaveG

Mike, I think he means that by opening your project and his AT THE SAME TIME you can copy and paste between the two? DaveG

Hi Eric, I copy what you say, but in the case that Maureen is talking about the connection between the computer and projector SHOULD be aHDMI/DVI and I suspect that the procedures are a little different. They certainly are when connecting my Vaio to my TV via HDMI but my Vaio is not the same resolution as my TV. DaveG

Maureen, You said: "When you project you need to set your laptop / computer up correctly to clone the image and also decide which resolution takes priority if necessary." Could you elaborate a little on that? How? In your case it sounds as thought the laptop resolution/aspect ratio matches the projector - what happens with a different laptop with a different resolution/aspect ration? Thanks, DaveG

Would it be possible to open each show in turn and "Create a Template" on the new drive? That's the way I handle "Completed Shows". If the new drive is accessible from the old drive then this would work. It depends on how many shows you have? DaveG

Tony, Your 4:3 show would not be stretched but you might not want to see your desktop behind so you could either create a 16:9 black menu slide which would hide the background or create your new shows in 16:9 format background with the 4:3 show up front. DaveG

Tony, If you buy a 1920x1080 the likelihood is that you will also get a new (more powerful) laptop with a matching resolution. Your image sizes will have increased putting more pressure on your RAM / Graphics etc. Your new laptop will need to have a DVI or HDMI (prefered) connection to the projector and will need to be set at 1920x1080 resolution. If the laptop screen's native resolution is NOT 16:9 (1920x1080) chances are you won't be able to see the laptop screen and the projected image at the same time. However, the projected image will then be ACTUAL pixels meaning that if you construct a show (whatever aspect ratio) with 1080 high resolution there will be no interpolation taking place anywhere in the chain. This is OPTIMUM and what you should be striving for. If you have a true 1920x1080 LCDTV (check the manual) and have a laptop with DVI or HDMI output (or could borrow one) I would strongly advise trying that combination before buying the projector. It will not help with your shows to clubs etc but at least it will get you accustomed to what your requirements would be if you decided on a 1920x1080 projector. The new Optoma is (I think) the HD80X or similar. http://www.royjowetthomecinema.co.uk/produ...-Projector.html DaveG

In the timeline select the 135 slides other than the 25 fixed time slides by clicking on the first and shift-clicking on the last. (I am assuming a contiguous selection). Go to "Timed Points" and select "Arrange Selected Points". The 135 slides will spread along the allocated time. This should create your 25 slides at your preset time and the remainder timed by "fitting" to the remaining time. DaveG

Lin, I would agree with you that, for the photographer, a 1600x1200 or an 1800x1200 projector would make more sense. However, when comparing 1024x768, 1400x1050 and 1920x1080 I think that from the point of view of resolution/aspect ratio the latter format makes the most sense. Many photographers, like yourself, are likely to want to keep the 3:2 aspect ratio which the cameras offer (DSLR). To use that aspect ratio on the 1024x768 and 1400x1050 projectors you cannot use the full resolution height of the projector - black lines top and bottom. With the 1920x1080 the 3:2 photographer can utilise the FULL resolution height of the projector in a 1620x1080 resolution (3:2) show. To sum up, the resolutions available for 3:2 shows are: Projector Resolution 1024x768 = 1023x682 Projector Resolution 1400x1050 = 1398x466 Projector Resolution 1920x1080 = 1620x1080 For aspect ratios of 4:3 or less (i.e. 3:2 portrait format) there is little difference between 1400x1050 and 1920x1080 (30 pixels difference in the height). For aspect ratios greater than 4:3 (i.e. 3:2 or 16:9) the 1920x1080 gives a decided advantage because use of the full resolution height is possible. Tony, There is a new Optoma 1920x1080 either on the market or due very soon - take a look at that. DaveG

http://www.wnsoft.com/support.htm

I get that message when opening 4.49. I just click on OK and the programme opens. I get that message if I try to open a V5 or later PTE project - it then will not open the project. You need to install 5.6 and then you will be able to open ANY project. DaveG

You no longer have the "Original Mode" option and your images are "Fit To Screen" - (O&A / Common). DaveG

Just kidding Ken - you've had a traumatic day. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: DaveG